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When I began building my tool collection in the late 1970s, I was like most novice woodworkers in that I did it in isolation. I didn't know any veteran woodworkers to advise me, so I bought what looked good to my inexperienced eyes, in the order that seemed to make sense. But with the passage of years, and the accumulation of experience, the folly of those early purchases became apparent. If you're building a general purpose woodworking shop, and intend to stay in the craft for the long-haul, I can help.
It's impossible to completely avoid wasting money on tools, especially little ones. You have to expect a certain amount of that. The stakes are higher, however, when tooling up with big ticket power tools that are your workshop foundation. The issue is not just about getting the most for your money. Choosing well is also about investing in enough tool capacity to let you grow as a craftsman. This last part is key: Your skills and expectations will grow faster than you think. Make allowances for it. The main reason people buy tools poorly is because they buy for current needs, not their best guess of future ones. And believe me, you always need more tool than you think. Here's the low-down on three of the most important power tools, in the order I recommend you buy them.
Start With a Tablesaw
There's a steady stream of new machines that claim to replace the tablesaw, but I still maintain that there's no substitute for this tool. If you're planning to build furniture and do general household fix-ups, the tablesaw should be your first major tool purchase.
I get more reader requests for advice on tablesaw selection than any other power tool. Part of this is due to the substantial investment involved, but there's another reason, too. The tablesaw field varies widely. There are $2000 stationary cabinet saws at the top end of the consumer line, $200 toys at the bottom end, and many machines in between. Which to choose?
A recurring mistake I made as a novice was under-buying tools, and this was the case with my first tablesaw. In less than a week I was running up against its limitations and wishing I'd bought more saw. Problems ranged from a small ripping capacity, inadequate power for cutting 1 1/2-thick hardwood, and an oddball 9 diameter blade. After an unhappy relationship, the saw finally died in a cloud of acrid smoke during the most time-sensitive job of my career. I paid dearly for the low price of that bargain saw.
What should you look for in a good tablesaw? Get one with a 10 diameter blade that can cut to the center of a 48-wide sheet. Saws with motors that draw 12 to 15 amps of current will give you the power you need. And if you're like most home workshoppers, tablesaw portability is important, too. There's never enough room in the workshop, so a saw that's easily moved pays off by freeing up floor space when you're not using it. Saws are available that satisfy all these important technical requirements, yet weigh less than 100 lbs.
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Table-Mounted Router
My first router was bargain-priced too, and its built-in shaft-lock broke 6 months after uncrating it. Low power was also problem, as was the inability to accept bits with a 1/2 shaft.. Although the old router is still alive, months go by without use.
When you're starting out, you only need one router. The trick is to get a machine that'll keep you happy for a long time. Choose one with at least a 2 HP rating. As you look around, keep your eye out for more powerful machines, too. Some 3 1/4 HP routers (the strongest available) weigh and cost only slightly more than their mid-sized cousins.
It's vital that you get a machine that accepts router bits with both 1/4 and 1/2-diameter shafts, or shanks as they're called. Most current R&D efforts are put into 1/2-shanked bits, so you don't want to be left behind with a 1/4-only machine. Even if the router you're interested in doesn't come with a 1/2 collet (that's the part that holds the router bit), ask about availability. Some models offer different collets as accessories. Beware, though. Certain low-priced routers can't be fitted with a 1/2 collet at any price. Don't get stuck with one of these.
A final word on routers: Almost every workshop I visit has an unused collection of high-speed steel (HSS) router bits hidden somewhere. They're always burned and black and dull, just like my HSS collection. If you feel the need for a router, then don't buy anything other than carbide router bits. Yes, they're more expensive than high-speed steel, but their long life means the cost-per-use figure is much, much lower. Don't fall into the it's-really-all-I-need self deceit that lured me and countless others into HSS router bit ownership. If you intend to use your router for more than 5 minutes, you need carbide.
Sliding Compound Mitre Saw
A table saw is an acceptable crosscutting tool, but it can't match the speed and accuracy offered by a mitre saw, especially a compound mitre saw. In this case the term compound means the motor-and-blade assembly can be tilted to one side, to cut bevels. Combine this with the swiveling support table and you've got the ability to cut angles in two planes -- compound angles.
I'd recommend a mitre saw early in your career, especially if you'll be building cabinets or installing moulding. My first one was a basic, low-priced, non-compound model that satisfied me for about a year. The biggest problem was its lack of crosscutting capacity -- only 5 1/2 at 90 degrees, and 3 1/2 at 45 degrees. If you feel the need for some kind of a mitre saw, don't underestimate the need to cut compound angles. And if it's even remotely possible that you might do some framing, say for a shed, garage or outdoor workshop, think seriously about the extra crosscutting capacity offered by a sliding compound mitre saw. The motor and blade assembly on these machines slide forward, as well as tilt, allowing them to easily crosscut the widest pieces of solid lumber.
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