You have offered suggestions to other homeowners with similar problems like installing a ceiling fan in the hallway, etc. I would like to know, firstly what causes condensation on the windows during the winter months when humidity should be lower and secondly, I would imagine that a heat recovery/air exchanger unit would solve the problem as well....is this an expensive venture in a home that is completly finished and, more importantly, it is possible?
Answer:
Condensation is caused by air reaching a due point and it does that on glass as the temperature difference from one side to the other reaches 10F degrees. Anything is possible if our pockets are deep enough and your arms long enough. Although HRV/ERVs work very well for the purposes they're designed, a far less expensive and more effective way for you to do away with the humidity is: Cold air holds more moisture than warm air and is, therefore, heavier. As air cools, it falls and keeps falling until it reaches the lowest level in the house. It cannot fall beyond the basement floor and that is where it has to be collected and pumped outside before that moisture gets a chance to condense in order to get rid of the moldy, musty odour and/or avoid it in the first place. A booster fan (250 CFM +) is available as a ‘pop in’ unit to fit 4”, 5” or 6” round heating duct. This can be installed in a totally separate duct line that is at least six feet from the nearest heat source. A timer on it will ensure that it operates only during the night (9pm to 9am) so cold, moist air it pumps out is not replaced by air that brings in even more humidity from outside. All joints and seams in the duct are taped and sealed for maximum efficiency and rather than a heating-type grill it should be a return air-type grill. To avoid having to core another hole in the foundation wall, this system can be vented, via a “TY” through the clothes dryer vent. Because none of the doors in the house go all the way to the floor, cold, moist air should find its way to that grill.
